Travel Accounts

THE JOURNAL OF EBENEZER HAZARD IN NORTH CAROLINA, 1777 AND 1778

EDITED BY HUGH BUCKNER JOHNSTON^*

[Vol. 36 (1959), 358-381]

Ebenezer Hazard¹ (January 15, 1744/5-June 13, 1817) was a son of Samuel Hazard of Philadelphia, an educated merchant who had himself done considerable traveling. The younger Hazard was graduated from the College of New Jersey (Princeton) with the degree of M.A. in 1765. He worked in a New York bookshop until October 5, 1775, when he was appointed the local postmaster. A little over a year later he was appointed Surveyor (i.e., Inspector) by Postmaster General Richard Bache. Having orders to regulate the Continental postal route² between Philadelphia and Savannah, Hazard made a preliminary trip to Edenton and back between May 15 and July 8, 1777, followed by a complete round trip to Savannah between October 8, 1777, to March 5, 1778.

The fact that Hazard was both intelligent and highly educated greatly increases the value and importance of the often detailed observations that he recorded in his two-volume manuscript entitled “The Journal of Ebenezer Hazard.” Fred Shelley suggests, in editing “The Journal of Ebenezer Hazard in Virginia, 1777,”³ that the latter may have intended the two volumes as source material for the “American Geography” that he contemplated but never wrote. The leisureliness of Hazard’s journey would have allowed him sufficient time and opportunity for collecting many of the basic documents on early American history that appeared some years later in his Historical Collections.⁴

Hazard continued in the office of Postal Surveyor until his term as Postmaster General of The United States from January 28, 1782, to September 26, 1789. He visited a son at Huntsville, Alabama, in 1816 but does not appear to have taken any notes on that trip. The “Journal” was handed down in the family until 1945, when Spencer Hazard gave it to the Historical Society of Pennsylvania.⁵

The two extracts which follow were taken from a microfilm copy of the original manuscript secured through the courtesy of this organization. Although Alonzo T. Dill made several references in Governor Tryon and His Palace⁶ to Hazard’s visit to New Bern, the fascinating details of the remainder of the 1777 and 1778 journeys into North Carolina have not previously appeared in print.

Suffolk, Virginia, to Edenton, June 12-June 20, 1777

June 12. Intended setting out for Edenton, but being informed that some Swamps through which I must ride are probably impassable by the late heavy Rains, I think it adviseable to stay till Tomorrow.—Saw M^r. Lunen⁷ early this Morning: he is as drunk as ever.—One Purcel is in Confinement in this Town, upon Suspicion of being concerned with Murphy in forging Drafts on the Treasury.—There is a great Deal of Tar & Turpentine here; I am told that it is made a few Miles off, & that very large Quantities are annually made in this Part of Virginia. It sells today for 9/6 Pr Bbl.—Yesterday was very sultry before the Rain; this Day is almost intolerably hot.—Lodged, by Invitation, at Col. Willis Riddick’s.⁸

13^th. I find that Tar & Turpentine are the Staple of the South Parts of Virginia.—Set out early in Company with Co. Morgan,⁹ Capt. Cha^s. Biddle¹⁰ & a Mr. Shoemaker of Phil^a.—After riding about 6 or 7 miles from Suffolk we came to one of the Swamps mentioned yesterday; the Water in the Post Road was up to my Horse’s Knees; this Place was about 150 Yards in Length. About three Miles farther we came to another of these Swamps, on which the Water on the Post Road extended, as near as I could judge, a Quarter of a Mile, & for about half that Distance it was with Difficulty I could keep my Knees out of it; had I come to this Place yesterday I certainly could not have crossed it. It is a fortunate Circumstance for Travellers that the Bottoms of These Places consist of Land which being wet is very firm, & as there are no Stumps or Roots in the Road there is no Danger of the Horses Stumbling: it is, however, a scandalous Thing that the Legislature do not order Bridges to be built there. This last mentioned Swamp empties into another called the Dismal Swamp¹¹ which is about 50 Miles in Length, & 15 Miles in Breadth: in this is a Lake 5 Miles long & from 3 to 4 Broad, which was first discovered about 20 Years ago, as I am informed. About six Miles from the second Swamp I rode through is the Line between Virginia and North Carolina. I saw great Numbers of Pines which were cut to get Turpentine: a large Notch is cut in the Trees cross-wise, the lower Part of which is hollowed to receive the Turpentine; a pretty large Slip is cut off the Tree on the upper Part of the Notch.—Tar is made by taking a Parcel of Pine Knots or other Parts of the Trees which contain a large Quantity of Turpentine, & piling them up, covering & burning them in the same Manner as Blacksmiths in the Country usually do their Wood which they intend for Charcoal: A Trough is dug all round the Pile, with Drains communicating with both, which all empty themselves into a large Hole, from which the Tar is taken out & put into Barrels. The Coals serve for the same Purposes with other Charcoal.

In one Part of the Road [I] met with large Quantities of a fine, light, soft Kind of Grass which had been blown by the Wind out of an adjoining Field: it was the Color of Flax, & branched in a very singular manner. Breakfasted at a House called the Folly¹² in North Carolina. I forgot to mention that in crossing the second Swamp all Cap^t. Biddle’s Cloathes &c in his Chair Box¹³ got wet: when I overtook him I found him drying them on the Bushes. Dined late at a Cap^t. Sumner’s,¹⁴ 21 Miles from Edenton, a tolerably good House where we met with civil Usage. At 6 oClock in the Evening my Company (among whom was a Mr. Vashon¹⁵ of Baltimore, whom I forgot to mention) determined to set out for Edenton; but as the Distance was great, & I was informed there were more Swamps & a very dangerous Bridge to be passed, & no House on the Road where it was probable we could lodge, I thought it best to stay at Sumner’s, & they went off & left me.—The Road today excepting the Swamps has been exceeding good.—The Land in the Part of North Carolina I have passed through appears to be better than that in the lower Parts of Virginia, & produce good Oak & other Timber ;— the Farming looks much like that in Pennsylvania, but I meet with no Meadow yet.—At Sumner’s is a large Cypress (white Cedar) Swamp. Though there has been a fine Air today, the Heat has been so great as to give me a violent Head-Ach.

The Virginians who are rich are in general sensible, polite, hospitable, & of an independent Spirit ;—the poor are ignorant & abject ;—all are of an inquisitive Turn, & in many other Instances very much resemble the People of Connecticut, but differ widely from them in their Morals; the former being much addicted to Gambling, drinking, swearing, horse-racing, Cock-fighting, & most Kinds of Dissipation.— There is a much greater Disparity between the Rich & Poor in Virginia than any of the Northern States. Lodged at Cap^t. Sumner’s, who keeps as good an House as the Times will admit of. Variety of Provision must not be expected in this Country at this Time of the Year; Bacon is almost the only Dish to be had, & I do not recollect that I have dined any where since I first entered Maryland but Bacon was upon the Table.

June 14^th. Set out early for Edenton where I breakfasted, & met with my Company again. The Road from Sumner’s to Edenton is not as good as from Suffolk to Sumner’s, (excluding the Swamps) being more sandy & the Land is many Places deep.—

The Country is a Pine Barren. The Ticks, Gnats & Horse Flies are very troublesome; particularly the latter, which are large, vigorous, & endowed with no small Share of Perseverence; if they once get fixed upon a Horse, it is not an easy matter to remove them. My Companions set out for the Southward, but the Heat is so intense I cannot stand it & have determined to return. Edenton is a small Town (the Capital of Chowan County) situate upon Albemarle Sound; the Houses in general are low, wooden Buildings & much scattered.—The Hon: Joseph Hewes¹⁶ & three other Gentⁿ. are building a Rope-Walk¹⁷ here w^ch. I imagine will be the best on the Continent. The Sound at Edenton is twelve Miles wide, & in blustering Weather the Navigation is very dangerous; the Water is fresh, has no Currents, & is crossed in open Boats badly fitted. This Ferry must be crossed by all who go by the lower Road, as it is called, to Charlestown;¹⁸ the other, or upper Road, goes through Hallifax; the Country upon it, I am told, is well settled, & all the large Ferries are avoided by going that Way.—Some Quakers in North Carolina have lately emancipated their Negroes, & the Assembly have passed a Law for apprehending the Negroes, and selling them as Slaves; the Money to be put into the public Treasury. The Reason assigned for this Proceeding, I am told, is that the Quakers refuse to give Security that the Negroes shall not become Burthensome to the State. I think this Conduct cannot be vindicated; it is infamous & a violent breach of Faith, as well as an intrusion upon private Property, & directly repugnant to every principle upon which we contend for Liberty. It certainly would have been better to allow of the Emancipation & passed a Law that such Negroes as could not maintain themselves, & actually became burthensome to the State, should, when they became so, be hired as Servants to some Person who should maintain them.—I am told, that at the Meeting of the Assembly, a Dispute arose between them & the Senate, which should be the Upper House; it was determined by a Majority of Votes, & as each County send two Assembly Men & but one Senator, the Assembly carried it of Course. A Vessel is lately arrived at Edenton from Cape Francois¹⁹ w^th. 117 Pigs of Lead & 100 french Hhd^s. (about 60 gall^s., each) of Rum, belonging to Congress; the Lead is Part of a large Cargo from old France, which has been distributed among a number of small Vessels to prevent its falling into the Hands of the Enemy; brass Field Pieces, I am told, formed a Part of it. Lodged at George Gray’s,²⁰ a pretty good House, at which I met with Cap^t. Fairchild²¹ of New York.

June 15^th. Last Night a Sloop arrived from St. Croix²²— loaded with Rum. Dined with the Hon. Joseph Hewes Esq^r. formerly Member of Congress for this State, but left out now as he has served 3 years, & the People think that a sufficient Length of Time for one Man to be entrusted with so much Power.

I learned in Virginia that Richard Henry Lee²³ was not continued in Congress by that State, because he leased his lands upon Condition that the Rent should be paid in hard Money or something which would produce it, thereby depreciating the Continental Currency.—

Hot, sultry Weather, but the Heat a little alleviated by a Breeze from the Sound. This being Sunday, the Negroes have an Holy-Day, according to the Custom of the Southern States. There is the same Nakedness among the Negroes all along the Road & here which I observed at Williamsburgh; both there & in the other Places I have passed through the Females have a coarse Kind of Cloth wrapped round their Waists unless they are very small.

16^th. The Edenton People themselves acknowledge this to be an exceeding hot Day;—there is no Wind at all. At Night a very heavy Squall of Wind from the North West drove a Brig & Schooner on Shore in the Sound directly opposite to Edenton; it was accompanied with as heavy a Rain as ever I saw; red Lightnings flashed almost incessantly, and Peals of dreadful Thunder followed each other in terrible Succession. The Oaths & Imprecations of some Sea Captains who were uneasy about their Vessels added Horror to the awful Scene.—Prophane Swearing is but a rascally Vice at best, but at such Times seems more unpardonable than at any other. M^r. Buchanan²⁴ (Brother to M^r. Tho^s. Buchanan²⁵ of New York) was crossing the Sound at the Time. The Squall came up & [he] had got within a Mile of the other Shore, but was forced to return to Edenton.

17^th. The Court sits today at Edenton. It is expected that some Persons supposed to be unfriendly to the American Cause will be called upon to take an Oath of Fidelity to the State, or to give Bond to depart from it in 60 Days, agreeable to a late Act of Assembly.

The Court met & adjourned till tomorrow.

In Consequence of last Night’s Rain the Weather is more cool than it has been, but it is hot enough to satisfy any reasonable Man yet.—

18^th. The suspected Persons were called upon to & refused to take the Oath of Fidelity;—they are to leave the State.—No Dignity in the Court.—A hot Day.—The Court House is a decent two Story Brick Building.

Edenton is a dull disagreeable Place.

I am told the following Lines were written by a Man who was ill-treated here, & put up at the Church Door;—

A broken window’d Church

With an unfinished Steeple,

A Herring catching Parson

And a d----d set of People.—

19^th. No remarkable Occurrence. Very warm Weather.

20^th. Set out in Company with Cap^t. Fairchild for Williamsburgh. There is a large Quantity of Moss on many of the Trees; some of it is above four Feet in Length. I am told that the North Carolina People frequently stuff the Seats of their Chairs, & Mattrasses with it. Lodged at the Folly.

21^st. Rode as far as Smithfield, where we lodged. Saw some Rice growing.—Howel²⁶ has a Daughter whose Christian Name is Mourning.

22^d. Got to Williamsburgh....

Williamburgh to Edenton, Bath, New Bern, and Wilmington, December 14, 1777—January 16, 1778

[December] 14^th. [1777] Moderate Weather. A Methodist of the name of Hill²⁷ preached in the Capitol; he appears to be an honest man, but does not shine as a Preacher. Nine french Soldiers deserted last Night.

15^th. Cloudy all Day & was rather sultry towards Noon. Set out for Edenton. Got safe over Sandy Bay (a narrow deep Gut, washed through the Sand near James Town, by the Tide, which is very dangerous at high Water) & James River, & rode to Nelson’s²⁸ where I lodged.—

16^th. Rain at Night. Very foggy in the Morning but cleared up warm afterwards. Rode to Suffolk, where I lodged at Whitefield’s,²⁹ who keeps the only Tavern now in the Town, which is a bad one. He at first denied me Admittance on Acco^nt. of his House being full, but after enquiring for Lodgings at five private Houses, I was obliged to return to Whitefield’s and coax him to take me in. Met with a young married Woman who disliked her Husband.

17^th. Rode to Sumner’s where I lodged. The old Woman at the Folly was so drunk that she could not cook me any Dinner, & I was forced to go without.—There was a very heavy Fog this Morning; the Remainder of the Day was clear & moderate; some Parts of it rather warm. Suffolk is crowded at present by People who have come there to purchase Salt &c lately arrived at South Quay.³⁰ Met with Cap^t. Fairchild. The Chevalier de la Roche³¹ lodged with us at Sumner’s. He described the heat of Charlestown by saying “;between Sharles-Town & Hell is no more as one Sheet Papier, & dat is very tin too.”

18^th. Very foggy all the Morning & cloudy the rest of the Day. Dined at Edenton. In my Way saw vast Numbers of Robbins: as they are the very same Thing we have among us, & I saw none here last Summer, I conclude that they are a Bird of Passage, & that these have come from the Northward.—This is the Day appointed by Congress for a general Thanksgiving on acco^t. of the Victory obtained over Gen^l. Burgoyne.³² Guns were fired at Noon from the Fort & Ships in the Harbour.

19^th. At Edenton. Clear, cold Weather. I understand that Mr. William Lowther³³ who left Edenton because he would not take the Test ordered by the Ass^y. is gone to New York.—The Assembly have passed a Law directing a Tax of a Halfpenny in the Pound to be raised upon all Property in North Carolina: one of the Collectors told me it would amount to £60,000.

20^th. Fine, clear Weather. An Aurora Borealis at Night.

21^st. Exceeding fine moderate Weather. Dined with M^r. Hewes. Am informed the halfpenny Tax will amount to £120,000.

22^d. Intended setting out for Bath, but the Ferryman has run away, which prevented me. Tried to get over in the Boat from the other Side of the Sound, but as the Wind was ahead, & we should not get over till some Time after Night, I concluded to stay for another Opportunity.

23^d. Rain all Day. Supped at Capt. Collins’s.³⁴ Had arrack Punch³⁵ Oranges & Almonds.

24^th. Cloudy Weather.

25^th. Xmass. Heard M^r. Earl³⁶ preach in the Church. The Clarke, previous to singing an Hymn to the Tune of “God save the King” said “Let us sing upon this solemn & rejoicing Occasion, a few Lines composed by D^r. Whitefield.”³⁷ The Parson’s Notes were very yellow & the last Leaf loose, from which I conjecture they were rather ancient & had been much used. Our Landlord, Geo. Gray, entertained his Lodgers today gratis & genteely. We had, inter Dia, Arrack Punch and Venison.—Spent the Evening with Cha^s. Bondfield Esq^r.³⁸ Had a Frolic afterwards. Guns were fired at noon by Way of rejoicing, & all the Negroes had a Holiday. In the Morning I attempted crossing the Sound but the Wind blew up right ahead, & I was forced to stay at Edenton.

26^th. Appointed Cha^s. Bondfield Esq^r. Post Master. Put my Horse on board the Ferry Boat, but as the Wind was ahead, & the Passage would be tedious I preferred going in what they call a Canoe but it is more like one of our New York small Pettiaugers³⁹ without Masts. For this Purpose I hired a Negro to assist one of the Ferrymen in rowing me over, but when I got down to the Boat I found the Fellow had given me the Slip, & I was forced to return. A M^r. Ryan⁴⁰ who lives on the South Side of the Sound was kind enough to lend me one of his Negroes, & I was rowed over to M^rs. Pierson’s,⁴¹ which is seven Miles from Edenton. People going to Cha^s. Town⁴² usually cross over to Mackay’s⁴³ (12 Miles) which is the best Way, as several Ferries are avoided by it, but a Kind of Fatality seemed to attend me, which prevented my going there. In my Way to M^rs. Pierson’s I passed the Mouth of Chowan River, which appears to be about 3 Miles wide. The Water in the Sound near Edenton is very shoal & brackish. As there was no Wind my Horse did not get over till after Night. I lodged very comfortably at M^rs. Pierson’s, who keeps an exceeding good House, & is sensible. She is from Lancashire in England.—The Weather has been very fine today, & moderate.

27^th. Set out on my Journey; the Weather warm & cloudy. I was directed to go to Kooshoak,⁴⁴ but understanding afterwards that it was out of my Way, I Rode to Spruel’s Ferry⁴⁵ upon Kooshy River.⁴⁶ I was caught in several Showers in my Way, but before I could leave M^rs. Spruel’s it began to rain very fast, & continued so till Night. A very heavy Fog came rolling up the River and soon disappeared: it looked much like a white Cloud. M^rs. Spruel informed me that they sometimes have dreadful Storms of Wind in this Country which do a vast Deal of Damage. There was one about six, & another about two Years ago. In the last she left her Dwelling House & went to a Negro Cabbin for Shelter. M^rs. Pearson told me she did so too, & that she had two framed Houses blown down by that Storm. It happened in September. M^rs. Spruel observed that she had been told that Philadelphia was the “Metropolisest City of this America.” Lodged at her House, which has not a Pane of Glass belonging to it.—

28^th. Cloudy Weather, & a heavy mist in the Morning. Crossed Cooshy River, which is not half a Mile wide in the broadest Part. It empties into Albemarle Sound, & runs into the Country a little above Windsor, where there is a Bridge across it. After I had crossed it I found that one Stewart⁴⁷ (to whose Ferry I was to go) no longer kept a Ferry, & I went to the Widow Ryan’s,⁴⁸ from whence I was rowed by two Negroes a little Way down Cooshy River, then through a Thoroughfare (as they call it) of two Miles in Length, into Roanoke, & down that River about 4 Miles to a Place called the Wharf. I was caught in several Showers in my Way down. The Lands on both Sides of the Thoroughfare & Roanoke are Swamps, which the People of this County call Pocosin. Another Thoroughfare runs from Roanoke to Cooshy called the Middle River. Between the first & the Warf in Roanoke is an Island⁴⁹ about a Mile long which ends within half a Mile of the Wharf. Roanoke always runs toward the Sound (into which it empties). It appears to me to be about 3/4 of a Mile wide. When I landed at the Wharf I went to a M^r. Webb’s⁵⁰ who treated me with great Civility but could not lodge me. I met there with a M^r. Hough⁵¹ (Cousin to Tommy Hough of Phil^a.) who invited me to his House. I ate nothing there, & drank nothing but Water, & Milk & Water; Slept very comfortably. Pine Knots (according to the Custom of the Country) served for Candles.

29^th. Set out for Bath, but before I got away from M^r. Hough’s my Horse ran away, but I was fortunate enough to catch him again.—Weather very clear & intensely cold.—Made a late Breakfast at Hardeson’s,⁵² upon cold Boiled Pork, Pone Toast,⁵³ & Yopon⁵⁴ Tea sweetened with Honey. The Tea was made in a Coffee Pot, & had no Milk with it. It has not the same Taste with Bohea,⁵⁵ but I think is not inferior to it: the Bush is an Evergreen, & has a Leaf much like the Prim of which Hedges are made. The Country between Hough’s & Bath is very poor, & mostly low, sunken Land. Lodged at Major Brown⁵⁶ at Bath, who is Post Master, Tavern Keeper, & Member of Ass^y.

Dec^r. 30^th. Water froze in my Bed Chamber last Night: very cold this Morning: grew something warmer towards Noon. Bath is a small Town in Beaufort County, situate upon a Creek called Bath Town Creek, which is about a Quarter of a Mile wide & empties itself two Miles below the Town, into Pamtico River. The Town contains about 20 framed Houses, & I am informed is the oldest in North Carolina.

3l^st. Met with Rich^d. Nassau Stephens⁵⁷ who formerly lived at New York: He invited me to his House. I lodged there. Clear, moderate Weather. In North Carolina they have Deer, Bears, Wild Cats, Opossums, Panthers, Alligators, Snakes in Abundance, & a very great Variety of other Animals.—The female Opossum has a false Belly in which she breeds & protects her Young: they appear at first (or in Embryo) like a Kidney Bean upon the Teat, & hang or stick to it till they are big enough to venture abroad. When they want to suck, or are in Danger they go into the false Belly of their Dam, & remain there as long as they find it convenient. Among the Snakes is one called the Glass Snake, of which I heard also in Virginia: I have been told by those who have seen it, that this Snake, when struck, breaks into Pieces (from whence it gets its Name) & it is commonly reported that these Pieces will again unite, & the Snake be as lively & vigorous as ever. Among their Plants in this State is the Myrtle, an odoriferous Bush, which bears a small Berry, of which the Inhabitants frequently make a Wax: mixed with Tallow this Wax makes excellent Candles. It is of a dusky green Color, & they commonly add a little Verdigrease to brighten it. N^o. Carolina abounds with wild Fowl of almost all Kinds. Went to Town with M^r. Stephens & did not return home till 2 OClock in the Morning.

1778

Jan. 1^st. Fine, clear, moderate Weather in the Day, but cold at Night. Went to Town again, & returned between 1 & 2 in the Morning. Appointed M^r. Stephens Surveyor of the Post Office in the Southern District of the United States;—to begin to act after 5^th. April, 1778. Supped at Cap^t. Keyes’s.⁵⁸

Jan. 2^d. Exceeding pleasant Weather.—Went to Town again. Saw some Negroes hired out for a Year; it was done by Way of Vendue. For several of them £28.15. each was bid.

3^d. Set out in Company with M^r. Stephens for Newbern. Bath Town Creek (see Dec^r. 30^th) empties itself but 2 Miles below the Town into Pamtico River, which is here 3 Miles wide: this River runs about 16 Miles up & then forks; the right Hand Fork is called Tar River: Pamtico empties into Pamtico Sound. From M^rs. Bond’s⁵⁹ (on the South Side of the Ferry) we rode to Moore’s Tavern,⁶⁰ where we Lodged. The Road from M^rs. Bond’s all the Way to Newbern (which is 28 Miles) runs through a barren Neck of Land, which is formed by Pamtico & Neuse Rivers.

To make Myrtle Wax the Berries are put into warm Water, which makes the Wax separate from them; it is then skimmed off & melted into a Cake.

The Generality of the Farmers in N^o. Carolina take no Care of their Horses, Cattle, Sheep & Hogs during the Winter but let them shift for themselves in the Woods as well as they can: the Woods produce a small Reed, an Evergreen, of which the Cattle &c are very fond, & on which they feed.

Instead of Mile Stones, Posts are usually fixed by the Road Side, with the Number of Miles marked on them in Roman Numerals, & as many Notches cut in the Side of it as you have Miles to travel; these Notches I suppose are for the Benefit of the unlearned.—Saw a Tar Kill.

Jan. 4. Rode to Newbern. In my Way crossed Neuse River, which is 2½ Miles wide: it empties into Pamtico Sound. There is an Island in the ferrying Place, which produces nothing but Sedge. Between Bath & Newbern are large Quantities of Land which have never yet been patented. The Reason is that they are so poor that they would not produce enough to pay the Quit Rent; they serve at present at Ranges for Cattle. There is in North Carolina a Briar called the Bamboo Briar; it grows exactly like a Grape Vine, runs up to the Top of the highest Trees & bears a pretty Flour: it is very tough. Last Night there was a severe Frost; this Morning the air was very keen, but the Weather grew warm at Noon & continued so the rest of the Day. The Weather is amazingly fine for the Season; in many Places the Grass is quite green. Lodged at Wrensford’s⁶¹ at Newbern.— Saw a Kind of Grass called Fox Grass from the Seed Part (or Head) of it curling like a Fox’s Tail: when it is green it smells exactly like Lime, & has a sourish Taste. The natural Grapes of No. Carolina are the red & white Muscadine, the former very plenty, the latter scarce; male & female of both; red ripe Middle Sept^r white latter End d^o. The red & white Fox Grape, the latter scarce, ripe about latter end September. The Bunch Grape, a blackish red, & very sweet, plenty; ripe 1^st. Week Sept^r. Small black Winter Grape; ripe 1^st. Frost.

M^r. Stephens informs me that a M^r. Barrow⁶² (whom I saw at his House) made an Experiment upon Persimons by distilling them agreeable to the Directions published in the Memoirs of the American philosophical Society;⁶³—he expressed the Juice & distilled it immediately, but as it did not yield as much Spirit as he thought he had a Right to expect from the Quantity of Juice, he fermented the next he was to distil, & then distilled it: in Consequence of the Fermentation he got upwards of a Gallon more Spirit from a Barrel of Juice than he had in the former Way (& could have got more) & of a vastly superior Quality. He fermented the Liquor with the Yeast of small Beer: he filled the Cask with the Liquor, & stopped the Fermentation (as soon as the Froth began to lower at the Bung Hole) by putting in the Bung, but opened a Vent Hole now & then, to prevent the Cask’s bursting, until he could distil the Liquor.—

The Produce of the Lands along the Coast of North Carolina is

Indian Corn

Wheat

Oats in large Quantities

Cotton

Flax

Pease

Rye in small Quantities

Barley (just beginning)

They are famous for great Numbers of small horned Cattle, and Hogs—few Sheep. The Banks (so called) abound with wild Horses; they were formerly so plenty that any Horse in the Going might be bought for 40/. (5 Dollars) The Timber (along the Coast) is Pitch Pine (of which they make Pitch, Tar & Turpentine) Cypress, Juniper, red & white Oak, spanish Oak, Post Oak (which lasts many Years in the Ground) & live Oak. There is also Hickory & a Variety of other Wood, but in small Quantities.

The principal Exports are Tobacco (which comes from the back Country) Naval Stores, Raw Hides, Deer Skins, Raccoon Skins, Myrtle & Bees Wax, & Tallow; Pork, Beef in small Quantities, Boards, Scantling & Staves, Snake Root both Seneca & Virginia. The Country produces Ipecacuanha in Abundance. Both Indigo & Rice are raised here, but in small Quantities; however some Gentⁿ. have raised so much (by Way of Experiment) as to encourage them to go on; one of them sold so much of one Year’s Produce as amounted to £1000. The wild Indigo grows here in great Abundance; it need be sown but once forever; it makes a tolerable Dye.—Laurel is plenty.

5^th. At Newbern. Dined with Col. Cogdell⁶⁴ on Comp^y. with his Son in Law M^r. Ja^s. Green.⁶⁵ The Weather is so warm that we sat without Fire.

6^th. Very fine, clear, warm Weather. I have lately met with a Number of Negro Children of both sexes, entirely naked: I suppose they have never had Clothes on them.

7^th. Intended setting out for Wilmington, but was prevented by my Washerwoman’s not bringing my Cloaths home seasonably. Exceeding fine Weather. Dined with Tho^s.⁶⁶ & Titus Ogden.⁶⁷ People begin to talk of Gardening. Wrensford keeps an exceeding good House, but his Charges are extravagant. Newbern covers more Ground than any Town I have met with since I left Annapolis, but the Houses are scattered, & each of them has a Garden Spot belonging to it. The Buildings are mostly framed. The Town is situated on the Side of a Bay between Neuse River on the North, & Trent River on the South. The Governor’s Residence, called the Palace,⁶⁸ is an elegant, two Story, Brick Building with proper Offices. Upon opening the Street Door you enter a Hall in which are four Niches for Statues: directly opposite the Street Door is another Door which opens into an Entry leading to the back Part of the Palace: over it is this Inscription, painted in white Capital Letters upon a black Ground; viz.

“Guli^mo. Tryon Armig^o. &c &c &c:

Regnante Provinciam An: Dom: 1771

Augusto huic Aedifico ea Carmina vovit Gul^s. Draper

Balnei Eques, Manilla Victor” (in one line)

underneath

“Rege pio felix, diris inimica Tyrannis

Virtuti Has Aedes libera Terra dedit

Sint Domus & Dominus Saeclis Exempla futuris

Hinc Ärtes, Mores, Justitiamq: colant. D: D: D:”

(Manilla Victor reminded me of a Piece of Sir William Draper’s Vanity exhibited on a Cenotaph at his Seat at Clifton Down near Bristol in England, on which is this Inscription “Here lies the Mother of S^r. W^m. Draper”).⁶⁹

Immediately on getting into the Entry you see an elegant Stair Case with Mahogany Banisters, which reaches to the Top of the House, & is there covered by a glazed Cupola, which serves to illuminate it. The Rooms are spacious, elegant, & neatly finished: one of them is appropriated to the use of the Senate (Council) which I think is an Imposition upon the Gov^r. In this are the Pictures of the King & Queen at full Length.—I am told that some of the back Country Members moved for Leave to bring in a Bill for selling the Palace; & that some of them when they come to attend the Assembly bring their Pork in their Wallets with them by Way of saving Expences.—I met with a Tree in Seed, called the Pride of China: the Seed hung in Clusters, & looked like Cherries, only that they were yellow: the Tree grows very quick & bears (as I am informed) a very beautiful Flower. Sent M. C. some of the Seed.

8^th. M^r. Stephens set out for home & I for Wilmington. Crossed Trent River 13 Miles from Newbern; the River is not above 20 Yards wide here, but very deep; the Boat is pulled across by a Rope. Dull, cloudy Weather, high Winds, & small drizzling Rains all Day. It is very dangerous riding in N^o. Carolina when the Winds blow hard, for you ride all the Way through Pines, many of which have been “boxed” to get the Turpentine out & others have been so much burned by burning the Woods that a high Wind is very apt to overset them. There is an exceeding good Causeway of near 8 Miles long on the Road between Trent River & M^rs. Warburton’s⁷⁰ where I lodged to Night. It extends from Trent to White Oak River, which is rather a Swamp covered with Water than a River. Mr^s. W. told me it was made out of Spite. The Overseer of the Road’s Daughter was delivered of a Mulatto Child. The Women of the Neighborhood talked freely of it: one swore she had slept with her one Night & in the Morning she observed her Shift had been much wet with Milk from her Breasts; another swore that the young Woman had gone to a Midwife, and enquired of her whether it was possible for a Woman to be got with Child when she was asleep without knowing it, &c: the Overseer of the Road, Believing the Fact to be as it was, & finding it would go hard with his Daughter, compromised the Matter as well as he could, & in Order to have Satisfaction of his Neighbours, altered the Road & made them come & make this Causeway through a Swamp. The Road all the Way from Newbern to M^rs. Warburton’s is very good. Nutmeg, scraped, & put into a hollow Tooth, gave immediate Relief.

The Assembly of North Carolina have passed an Act for confiscating the Estates of the King & Lord Granville⁷¹ in that State. I understand that Lord Granville is both a Minor & an Idiot. I am informed that Trent River, though so narrow where I crossed it, runs 40 Miles up the Country by Land, but to that Place by Water is 150 Miles, the River being extremely serpentine.

The Rattan grows in some of the low Grounds of N^o. Car^a. in the Form of a Vine.

Brick Dust & Vinegar rubbed on Mahogany will take out all Staines, & then a little Oil or Cream will give it a fine Gloss.

Newbern is the Capitol of North Carolina, & is in Craven County—While there I went into the Church Yard where I met with the following Inscriptions

To the Memory of

Charles Elliot⁷² late attorney General

For this Province who died anno 1756.

An honest Lawyer indeed.

Here Lyes Buryed the Body of

M^r. Josiah Howard

Son of John Howard Esq^r.⁷³

A Young man of Surprising Ingenuity

who departed this Life Octob^r. 10^th.

1759 aged 22 Years.

Ingenious Youth thou art Laid in Dust

Thy Friends for thee in Tears did burst

But as thy Youthful Piety was Great

We all Submit with thee to follow CHRIST the great

Altho in Youth thou art Laid in Dust

Thy GOD will Raise thee up we Trust.

I rode through Part of Craven, Carteret & Onslow Counties today.

M^rs. Warburton says she has had Pease in the Ground a Week: it is a common Practice to plant them by Twelfth Day.

Saw a Number of negro Children of both Sexes, stark naked today; they have never been cloathed yet: saw also a Negro Woman with nothing on her but a very ragged Petticoat.

9^th. A clear, severe Sky. Air rather cool. Towards noon the Wind rose, & blew flawy all the rest of the Day. The Country hitherto has been remarkably level, but I have met with a Number of Hills today though they are small. The Road from M^rs. Simmons’s⁷⁴ (where I dined) to M^r. Snead’s⁷⁵ on New River, where I lodge, is, for the most Part very sandy; in some Places the Sand is very deep:—the Roots of the Pine Trees run across the Road, & are so buried in the Sand that a Horse can not see them, & they are very apt to trip him. New River, at the Ferry, is about three Eighths of a Mile wide, but a little lower down is three Miles broad: it empties into the Sea.

There is an upper Road from Newbern to Wilmington by which New River Ferry⁷⁶ may be avoided; but the Stages on it are not as good as on the lower Road. New River is about 40 Miles long; it is but 6 Miles from Snead’s to the Sea. Saw a Handmill for grinding Corn with a Pair of Stones. The Stones were about the Size of middling large Grind Stones.

10^th. Crossed New River Ferry. The Road from hence to Collier’s,⁷⁷ (where I lodge to-night) is a very fine, deep, loose, white Sand, in some Places four, & in some even six Inches deep: the Depth of the Sand & blundering over the Roots of the Pines fatigued my Horse very much. From Snead’s to Sage’s⁷⁸ (which is 13 Miles) there is but one House on the Board, the Country is totally uncultivated. I have frequently rode 5 & 6 Miles in this Journey without seeing any Sign of Cultivation.—Weather clear & moderate today. Had Excellent Oysters for Supper last Night at Snead’s. Notwithstanding M^rs. Collier’s Character for Singularity, she treated me with great Civility & I fared very well there—so did my Horse.—

11^th. Set out for Wilmington. It rained & blew very hard in the Night, and there was some Rain this Morning. This was much in my Favor, for it settled the Land in the Road: it was deep notwithstanding. When I was between 7 & 8 Miles from Wilmington, at a Mile’s Distance from any House, there came up a violent Storm of Wind & Rain;—my Horse could not face it but turned his Head in order to avoid it:—I rode fast, but was wet to the Skin before I could get to a House: a little hospitable Hut afforded me Shelter for myself & my Horse. I set out again after the Rain, but it began to rain again when I was within two Miles of Wilmington; I stopped at one McCulloch’s (a Tavern) where I dined, & when the Rain was over I went to Wilmington. Lodged at M^r. DuBois’s.⁷⁹—There are vast Quantities of Moss (very long) & Mistletoe all along the Sea Coast of North Carolina; they are not confined to the Oak, but each of them grows on a Variety of Trees. From Snead’s at New River, all the Way to Wilmington the Road is remarkably sandy, but the deepest Land is from Sage’s to Wilmington.—

12^th. Wilmington is a small Town situated in a sandy Hollow surrounded with Sand Hills; it lies upon the North Branch of Cape Fear River which is here about 300 Yards wide: it is the Capitol of New Hanover County. The River is defended by a Battery of 9 nine Pounders, & another of 8 Guns from 5 to 12 P^rs. Here are also two Iron Field Pieces on traveling Carriages. The Houses in Wilmington are mostly framed, & but indifferent Buildings. When M^rs. Tryon⁸⁰ was in North Carolina she desired the Ladies to address her, when they spoke or wrote to her, by the Title of her Excellency; and intimated that they ought to stand when in her Presence, alledging that as the Governor & his Lady were the Representatives of their Majesties, they ought to be treated with equal Ceremony.—People in North Carolina differ much respecting Gov^r. Tryon’s Conduct in the affair of the Regulators; some blame him & some them, & some both of them; but all agree that Col. Fanning⁸¹ was at the Bottom of it: they say that he insisted upon & took larger Fees than the Law allowed; & that when he was in the Back Country he took Money from them for Lands of which he promised to procure Grants for them, but neither did it nor returned the Money; & when they complained to the Gov^r. for Redress, he told them he would believe Col. Fanning’s Word sooner than their Oath.—

The following Instance of Gov^r. Tryon’s Cruelty has been mentioned by every Person with whom I have conversed about the Regulators.

There was one Merol⁸² (see March 27^th.), a Rifle-Maker by Trade, from whom some of the Regulators purchased their Rifles; upon their saying they bought them to him, the Man was apprehended as belonging to their Body, & tho’ no further Proof of it appeared against him he was hanged. He left behind him a Wife & eleven Children. Staid in Wilmington till the 16^th. when I crossed the Ferry, rode over a dismal, swampy Island, (which seems to be a Haunt for Herons & Turkey Buzzards) of about a Mile & a Quarter wide, crossed a Ferry over Northwest River (about 150 Yards wide) & lodged, not far from the Bank of it, at M^rs. Eagan’s.⁸³—

The Weather has been rather cool, & there have been two pretty smart Frosts since the 11^th.

Saw Cap^t. Will^m. Robeson.⁸⁴—There is a Causeway across the Island, but it is in very bad order.

17^th. Agreeable Weather early in the Morning, but rather cool; rode over a Causeway 3 Miles long:—it is in bad Order.— Took a “short Cut” to save 12 Miles Riding—Memorandum. Take no more short Cuts in North Carolina.—Had to cross two Mill Dams & met with great Difficulty. Rode through a very gloomy Cypress Swamp:—lost my Way.—Saw Palmettos growing; they look like Fans.—Crossed Town Creek at Davis’s Ferry⁸⁵—very narrow.—Met with a Man at Davis’s of the Name of Leonard ;⁸⁶ —a Relation of the Leonards at Princeton;—fortunately, for me, he was going to Lockwood’s Folly:⁸⁷—we rode in Company. After riding 2 Miles reached one Potter’s:⁸⁸ did not see him: he is said to be very sensible but married to a Mulatto Woman. The Corn there was mouldy. My Horse would not eat it. Got a Draught of Yellow Water at this rascally House: it afforded nothing better. Was caught in the Rain here, & had to stay till 2 OClock P.M.—Very cloudy all the rest of the Day.

From Potter’s to the Widow Mills’s is 12 Miles, & not a House all the Way. The Road is nothing more than a Foot Path, & runs through Swamps & wet Savannahs (or Heaths) for the most Part. In one of the Swamps the Water came up to my Saddle Skirts. If M^r. Leonard had not been with me I certainly should have returned to M^rs. Eagen’s, for the Swamps had so terrible an appearance that I should not have ventured through them. M^rs. Mills’s⁸⁹ House looked so badly that I would not stop there, especially as I was but 5 Miles from Lockwood’s Folly, & the Sun began to appear in such a Manner as to induce me to think I might get to the Folly before it rained. In my Way saw 5 or 6 wild Deer run across the Road. The Wind has been very high the most of the Day.—A vicious Mare which Mr. Leonard led, kicked at my Horse as she passed him; she was very near hitting my Leg: had she done it, I think she must have broke it.—Could get no Fodder for my Horse last Night;—instead of it he had Marsh Hay, which is a Composition of Weeds & the wildest Kind of Grass imaginable;—he would not eat it.—He would have been a Fool if he had.—Lodged at Bell’s at Lockwood’s Folly, a mean looking House where both I & my Horse had plenty with Civility.—M^rs. Bell⁹⁰ is from near Montock at the East End of Long Island: her maiden name was Parsons.—Lockwood’s Folly is a Creek which empties into the Sea: it gets its Name from one Lockwood who mistook it for Cape Fear Inlet, & lost his Vessel. Crossed it by a Bridge near Bell’s.—But little Rain before Bed Time, but the Wind excessively high. M^rs. Eagen’s House (where I lodged last Night) had many Panes in the Windows broke; each of these was stopped up with a Bunch of Moss. Sultry the most of the Day.

18^th. Rained, & blew excessively hard in the Night. Fine clear Weather this Morning. As I understood I could get no Corn on the Road I took some with me, & fed my Horse in the Woods. No House for 9 Miles, & after that none within 13.—No Tavern at present in 26 Miles. Sandy Road. Crossed Little River in South Carolina by a Bridge. Lodged at M^r. Verreen’s,⁹¹ a private Public House in Craven District. Neither ate nor drank from the Time I first set out this Morning till I reached Verreen’s.

Footnotes